Wine Club Notes : Feb 09
Simply Ridiculous!
That’s the only way to describe this month’s finds. Both are from producers operating far above the standards for their region or classification.
As a ‘Cru Bourgeouis’, a Bordeaux should be solidly built and drinkable. Not stunning, complex and age-worthy!
A Rully – A village in the Macon region of Burgundy – producing mostly white wines (100% Chardonnay by law) are expected to be simple, straightforward and at best ‘elegant’. Here we have a Domaine that simply ignores these expectations and makes a wine that is every bit equal to (if not flat out superior to) many of its more ‘respectable’ neighbors to the north, in Montrachet, Meursault, Chablis etc.
These selections epitomize our passion for finding knockout wines seriously over-performing for their station and price. Wish us luck in finding more like them!
2006 Domaine de la Folie, Clos La Folie, Côte Châlonnaise $32
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This graceful 16th century estate sits on top the Montagne de la Folie, a long, high ridge considered in ancient times to be the playground of fairies and goblins—a place where mortals dare not tread. The domaine is the northernmost in the Rully AC; its vineyards are the highest in elevation and, strikingly for Burgundy, all but one are monopoles. The estate has been in the care of the Nöel-Bouton family for over two centuries and has long been considered a leading domaine in Rully. They have 44.5 acres of vines.
The vineyards grow in well-drained limestone soils and have exceptional exposure on top of the hill or on its eastern flank. They are low yielding, hand-harvested, and rank among the most impeccably tended vineyards in the Côte Chalonnaise.
Clos St Jacques is a postage stamp of a walled vineyard whose vines date from the 1950s. Adjacent to it and a little higher up the mountain side is the domaine's other flagship, Clos du Chaigne. The former is just over four acres; the latter just over eight. In considering these two premier cru vineyards, it's worth noting that Chassagne-Montrachet, which produces some of the world's finest and most expensive Chardonnay, lies a mere four miles away as a crow flies. Folie's wines are deliciously elegant renditions of Chardonnay, infused with lip-smacking minerality that is the hallmark of all the great white wines of France.
They are easily among the very best white wines of the appellation—"with a lovely reserve here that is largely absent from the wines of Rully"—and they rival many more expensive wines made a few miles up north in the Côte de Beaune (Allen Meadows, Burghound #4)
2004 Chateau Pibran - Pauillac, Bordeaux $28 (suggested retail $50)
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This is a rare beast; one of the few attractive and affordable alternatives to the wines of the classed growth estates in Pauillac. And that Pibran is such a viable alternative should perhaps not be that surprising; near neighbours include Mouton-Rothschild, Pontet-Canet and Lynch-Bages. Today, however, such a succinct account of Pibran's position does not tell the whole story. Under the umbrella of Christian Seely (below) and AXA Millésimes, since its purchase from the Billa family in 1987, Pibran is now finding a new direction. There has been considerable investment, reorganisation and revitalisation. Perhaps the most significant and tangible addition is a new chai, enabling the wines of Pibran to be vinified on the estate rather than at Pichon-Baron, AXA Millésimes' other Pauillac jewel, but there is also much going on in the vineyards. These have been extensively replanted over the years, with the addition of improved drainage
Château Pibran is situated in the northern part of the famed Pauillac appellation on the left bank of the Gironde. It lies on one of the best gravelly outcrops in the area. The current château was erected in the 18th century. The good people at AXA have invested a lot of money here recently and it shows.
Pibran is everything you want from a Bordeaux. It is under the direction of Jean-Michel Cazes of Château Lynch-Bages, which happens to be a near neighbour. That alone makes it worth your attention. It is vinified at the state of the art facility at Pichon baron. You can't ask for more. Here's the killer. It is classified as Cru Bourgeois despite its recognised quality, and that keeps the price down. That, as they say, is the trifecta.
The present breakdown of Château Pibran is 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. The average age of the vines is 30 years. These are very good wines that continue to improve in bottle and with each successive vintage.
Lamb Burgers with Mint Sauce
SERVES 4
2 tsp. sugar
3 tbsp. white wine vinegar
1⁄2 cup minced mint leaves, plus whole mint leaves for
garnish
1 1⁄2–2 lbs. ground lamb
1 tsp. vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 kaiser rolls or hamburger buns
4 large leaves boston lettuce
1. Stir together sugar, vinegar, and 2 tsp. hot water in a small bowl until sugar has dissolved. Add mint and set aside.
2. Divide lamb into 4 portions, and shape each into a thick patty. Lightly brush a grill pan with oil and place over medium heat. When pan is hot but not smoking, place patties on pan and cook for 3 minutes per side, for a medium-rare burger. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
3. Serve burgers on rolls or buns, topped with mint sauce and garnished with lettuce and whole mint leaves.
Serve with Chateau Pibran, or a spicy Rhone blend.
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